Attached vs Detached Pros and Cons
I am often asked about our detached garage and why on the Century Oak floor plan we sell which is based on our own house, is the garage different and attached. (There is a detached version available as well). The answer to this question is that we thought more people would prefer an attached garage over a detached. However, we are finding it to be more evenly split. Here’s a few things to consider if you’re wondering if you should go with a detached or attached garage for your home build.
These are pretty much the inverse of the above, so these points are brief. If you want more clarification see the explanations above.
A more integrated bonus room, better flow from main part of the house.
Don’t have to deal with weather to get to car
Less construction cost
More noise heard in main house from the garage/Bonus Room
May require a wider lot/land
Probably the most important consideration in deciding the size of your garage is the size of your vehicles.
If you have a big truck or SUV that you want to keep in the garage, measure the length, width and height and make sure there will be enough room to walk around 3 sides and open doors.
Allow 9-10′ of width per car, and 20-24′ of depth for circulation and storage.
Will you be storing other items like bicycles, lawn mower, tools, golf cart, RV in this garage or elsewhere? If it will be some or all of the above, you’ll need extra space and possibly an extra bay.
A typical garage door is 8′ wide by 7′ tall. Double width garage door are typically 16′ wide.
On my plans, they are typically 8′ tall and either 8′ or 16′ (double) wide. It’s a fairly quick adjustment to change the width of the garage doors if necessary.
For large SUVs and trucks, a 9′ or 10′ wide door may be a more comfortable fit. Or for an oversized double, you could go with 18′ wide.
To make our garage doors more attractive, I added these carriage style accents. They are magnetic and have big impact for a very small cost!
A room built into the “attic space” over the garage is often referred to as a Bonus Room. Because garages are so large, their roofs create quite a bit of potentially usable space below. If it’s framed right, this can be good additional square footage for your home.
In my opinion, If you’re building from scratch, it makes sense to go ahead and have the space over the garage framed for a bonus room, whether you plan to finish it out right away or not.
You may change your mind later and decide that extra space would be good for your family.
Also, there’s no better way to increase your home’s value than additional square footage.
You’re already paying for the roof over this space, you might as well, have it framed for a live load* in the ceiling joists above the garage.
You’ll also have the space above framed to create a usable room. So instead of trusses and diagonal cross bracing everywhere, they would build a couple of vertical walls to support the roof and define a potential Bonus Room.
If the budget is tight, you can just have it framed for a Bonus Room and finish it later. This is what my husband and I did.
Most Bonus Rooms use the space down the center of the Garage roof where the most height is and have sloped ceilings down to a certain height, maybe 5′ or 6′ above the floor. Gables can provide some extra window light as well as headroom.
If the space will be used as a bedroom, make sure the windows meet egress requirements per code.
*Live load refers to the way a space will be used and therefore how much structure will be needed to support it. If framing just has to hold itself and a roof up (called dead load), the framing members could be smaller than if it was a LIVE LOAD and needed to support people, furniture, and other moving forces, etc.
I have a whole blog post about Bonus Rooms HERE.
NOTE: Because we knew we wanted a large multi-purpose room and storage over our garage, I added some extra height in the design and a large gable for additional usable area.
I hope you found this helpful!
I look forward to connecting with you in the comments or on Instagram!